THE REVOLUTION OF MEAT FROM OLD, FAT COWS

“I don’t care about the breeds, but about the animals. I select old, fat cows, well treated. I don’t look at their age, their breed, or where they come from. Cows fattened in 6 months are no good. I am interested in the way each farmer treats his animals. Fat is a cow’s mirror. The dark brown ones, for example, don’t infiltrate, they are rustic and reared in the open air; they are no use, unlike chickens or pigs.”

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF LONG MATURING PERIODS ?

Over-maturing is the equivalent of over-rotting. From a bacteriological point of view these are dangerous meats that can play a nasty trick on you. In France the Health Department forbids prolonged maturing times. With the grill heat at 60ºC, bacteria survive. In Spain the fashion has started in the big cities. It is a strange yearning that has emerged among groups of clients. Generally speaking, in our society the preference is soft meats; people have forgotten how to chew, we appreciate textures that melt in the mouth. We tend towards food typical of a soft society. The grill houses are afraid of complaints that the meat is tough, if that happens the restaurant is dead. When in doubt, the caterer prefers to mature for a longer time. For their part, the clients prefer the strange tastes obtained from long maturing times rather than insipid meats. They taste, among others, of liver, game and Roquefort cheese. In Europe too there is a tendency towards this circus that seeks notoriety because a piece of meat can be completely tender after 15 or 20 days in the cold storage chamber.